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How to walk Ninomaru-goten's singing corridors before the coach wave arrives, what the reopened Honmaru-goten adds, and how to build a full September day around the shogun's Kyoto.

The Golden Pavilion cannot be pre-booked or timed, so the only lever an October visitor has is the hour they walk through the gate. Get that hour right and the rest of a day in north Kyoto arranges itself around it.

A mountain of vermilion torii above Kyoto, free to enter at any hour, where the hour you pick decides what sort of walk you get.























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